A Visitors Guide to Newmarket

Newmarket Heathjackets and, whatever your view of their position
Many of us are veterans of the Rowley Mile andwithin the sport, the image of an immaculate
July courses but the town has a great deal moreGodolphin string turned out on a crisp Newmarket
to offer than just racing upon its venerable turf.morning is one of the most stirring sights in racing.
If immersion in the equine world is your thing,In the centre of town near the clock tower and
there is no finer place to tip yourself in thanthe BP Station, is located 'The Severals' where
Newmarket; a self-contained idyll of everythingnumerous strings converge to circle around and
horse, situated in the far reaches oflimber up before crossing the Bury road to
Cambridgeshire as the flat lands give way to theascend Warren Hill.
shapely folds of the beautiful west SuffolkGuided Tours
countryside. For racing folk everywhere, the placeAnother way to approach Newmarket is to sign
just bubbles with goodness.on for a guided tour, which in most cases includes
the benefit of a yard or stud visit, and entry to
King James I greatly increased the popularity ofthe National Horseracing Museum and/or National
racing in Newmarket, and King Charles I followedStud. In all cases advance booking is essential:
this by inaugurating the first cup race in 1634. AnThe Newmarket Experience
association which gathered pace during theTheir calendar of events in 2008 included special
Restoration of 1660, and the reign of King Charlestours of Sir Michael Stout's Freemason Yard and
II, who became passionately involved with theLuca Cumani's Bedford House Stables. They also
sport and the last English monarch to ride a raceorganise a number of private tours of Sheikh
winner at Newmarket. The bushes on the RowleyMohammad's Dalham Hall Stud, the worldwide
Mile mark his favourite position for spectatingcentre of the Darley bloodstock business, and
across the course he devised for late summerall-day racing tours which culminate in a visit to
and springNewmarket races.
My favourite time to visit the Rowley Mile is inNewmarket Racecourses
October on Champions Day, the highest classProvide race day tours of the Rowley Mile course,
single day's flat racing in Europe. This is a terrificwith options to go behind the scenes and to be
meeting with an excellent blend of races, made allguided by 'a racing legend'.
the better by manageable attendance levels.Newmarket Connections
Unlike the Guineas meet, it remains relativelyOffer comprehensive tour packages for groups
simple to achieve a good position at the paddockof 20 or more, or bespoke VIP packages for
and for the race itself - so difficult around thesmall groups of up to 6, that in addition to the
country at other times.above can encompass the equine hospital,
So much for the racing, but what of the townTattersalls sales paddocks, Jockey Club and the
itself?British Racing School.
The National StudHoofbeats Tours
AWhere better to begin than with a tour of theOperated by trainer Julia Fielden's husband John,
National Stud, located beside the famous statuefrom their yard office at Exning near Newmarket.
of Hyperion near the July Course. From theSmall informal groups of up to 6 people take in a
moment the automatic gates swing open it's clearyard tour, the Newmarket gallops, British Racing
you're in for a civilised experience - places areSchool and the National Stud.
reserved by phone or email and you simply roll upThe Jockey Club
and pay on arrival. Here, thanks to Mr PhilAlthough the Jockey Club has now decamped
Cunningham, we can see new sire Cockney Rebelonce more to London, two and a half centuries of
together with a mixed roster that includesequestrian tradition live on in this most impressive
Bahamian Bounty and Silver Patriarch. Then therebuilding located at The Jockey Club Rooms, 101
are the paddocks with the broodmares and youngHigh Street. From the moment you enter the
foals, the stallion men, covering barn, foaling unit,elegant Georgian hall you are transported to an
Mill Reefs' statue and grave, plus the odd celebrityera of understated luxury and aristocratic privilege.
guest: Grand National winner Amberleigh HouseWith antiques and substantial works of equine art
has cheerfully greeted visitors here for severalin every room by Stubbs, Herring and Munning a
seasons.visit here leaves an indelible impression. Tours are
At the National Stud they take little prompting toarranged for groups of 20 or more. High standard
confide that Newmarket Hospital has no A&Eovernight accommodation is also available,
facility - for that, you will need to visit Cambridge.together with options for dinner and breakfast.
On the other hand, if any one of the residents ofTattersalls
the National Stud requires emergency care, a vetI am constantly surprised by how few race-goers
can be summoned on site within 8 minutes, 24/7.take the opportunity to visit Tattersalls on sale
This, Sir, is the town of the horse.days. It's free and while not officially encouraged,
Newmarket Factsprovided you don't make a nuisance of yourself,
Since Herod, Matchem and Eclipse established theirno one is going to complain if you inhabit the
reputations here, racing has developed from aauction room a bit even if you don't actually
pastime for the few to a massive global industry.intend to bid for anything. There are two bars and
Forty generations on from the founding fathersa canteen style dining room where, in addition to
of the breed, the town's unique status isthe ring, you will rub shoulders with a who's who
preserved and it's commitment to the sport moreof racing. Many of the most well-known trainers in
vigorous than ever:the business smiling earnestly (a more cynical
100 vetsfellow might say nervously) at their wealthy
53 stud farmspatrons over brunch.
2 horse ambulancesTattersalls Yearling Book 1 is still the world's
Around 2,500 horses in training with 66 trainerspremier bloodstock auction. Auctions are also
An equine hospital and world class researchdeliberately timed to coincide with Newmarket
facilitiesrace meetings - someone has clearly thought
4,500 acres of ground operated by Jockey Clubabout this. Tattersalls' Park Paddocks is located
Estatesright in the centre of town, close to the railway
9,000 acres of stud landsstation.
2 racecourses and the longest turf straight inWest Suffolk and the Stud Lands
racingIf you are not familiar with Suffolk, I urge you
The world's largest and oldest expanse ofnot to leave Newmarket without taking a drive
continuously tended grasslandinto the beautiful rolling stud lands that project
60 miles of gallops of every descriptionsouth-eastwards from Newmarket along Duchess
Over 50 miles of 'horsewalks' linking stables andDrive - the home of Dalham Hall and Chevely
gallopsPark Studs. On one side of the road now reside:
Trigger operated lights, sited at rider height, atNew Approach, Halling and Manduro and on the
every horsewalk road crossingother Pivotal, Medician and Dutch Art. Carry on
On average 2 work riders are fatally injured eachinto Saxon Street; go left along Cheveley Road
year upon the gallopsand forwards into Saxon Street Road and you will
Visiting the Gallopsfind Juddmont Farms Banstead Manor Stud - their
The nature of a first encounter with NewmarketEuropean operation now standing among others:
is determined to a large extent by the season. InOasis Dream and Zamindar.
winter an eerie calm permeates the town, butNearby the village of Dalham hosts the charming
arrive on a spring morning and something of itsAffleck Arms Pub, frequented I hear by none
true purpose is revealed. Hundreds of racehorsesother than the ever-interesting Mr John Egan.
emerge from stables tucked away in everyFollow your nose further south east and the
corner and promptly take over; on the roads,glories of the Suffolk/Essex borders await,
weaving in and out of cars and, despite thethrough ancient medieval towns and quintessential
horsewalks, jogging along paths vacated byEnglish countryside. For those old enough to
pedestrians.remember this is 'Lovejoy' country, Long Melford
Whatever the day the best vantage point liesand the peerless Lavenham. An England of timber
from the elevated position of the most famousframes and thatched roofs, of lofty spires and
gallop in racing, Warren Hill, situated close to thespreading chestnut trees; picture perfect villages
centre of town alongside the Moulton Road. Theborn of the most prosperous region of medieval
last time I was there leaning on the rail I glancedEngland.
across to find one HRA Cecil had pitched upThis then is Newmarket. A town that fields, on
awaiting the arrival of owners. Here you will findaverage, just under one third of all British race
yourself among fellow gallop watchers, ownerswinners in a season, with many of these
and trainers (often saddled on the most unlikelyconcentrated in the better quality races.
looking hacks), as a proportion of the finestNewmarket in the morning is a surreal place,
thoroughbreds in the UK toil up the hill and backbuzzing with the activities of hundreds of
around just a few yards from the boundary railcentaur-like figures, nonchalant but serious, as
which marks the limit of public access prior tothough unaware of the danger and absurdity of
1pm.answering wealthy men's dreams, by teaching
Take the Bury Road, down to the Limekilns gallopracehorses to run faster. A serene equine world
'Bury side' or across town to Newmarket Heaththat lives happily alongside carefully attired Arabian
'Racecourse side' and the story is the same, milegentlemen in Barbour and flat caps, dimly aware
upon mile of carefully tended gallop. It isof the wider commercial world, but for many only
universally easy to park up and to carefullyinsofar as it is reported in the Racing Post.
spectate on the sidelines, ideally armed with a pairAnd you see, I just love it to bits.
of 10x50 binoculars. The Godolphin riders and staffUseful
are easily identified by the royal blue 'Emirates'key-club-estates.co.