| I continued my drive into the centre of Graz and | | | | that features 20 metre high and 6 metre thick |
| parked my vehicle in the underground garage | | | | walls whose construction began in 1544. Today |
| next to the Graz Opera - at more than 20 Euros | | | | there are various cannons that adorn the bastion |
| not exactly an inexpensive way to see the city, | | | | and at the open front of the building there is a |
| but affordable parking is difficult to find in | | | | beautiful view overlooking the city. Just below the |
| downtown Graz. My first stop was the Graz | | | | bastion is the "Türkenbrunnen" (Turkish |
| Opera House, a neo-baroque building that was | | | | Well), a 94 metre deep well that taps into the |
| opened in 1899 and damaged during an air strike | | | | groundwater level of the Mur River. Its intention |
| in World War II. A few steps further west I | | | | was to provide water, even during extended |
| reached the Herrengasse, the main shopping | | | | periods of besiegement. |
| street of Graz, framed by dozens of high-end | | | | The Uhrturm itself, known far and wide as the |
| retailers and restaurants with outdoor patios. A | | | | symbol of Graz, is one of the oldest buildings of |
| line of the Graz streetcar system continues all | | | | the city. The core of the tower is assumed to |
| along the length of this major street. | | | | date back to the 13th century and was already |
| The west side of the Herrengasse features two | | | | mentioned in historic records in 1265. Its present |
| major sights: the Landeszeughaus (Armory), a | | | | appearance dates from 1560. Four large clock |
| weapons museum with roughly 32,000 exhibits | | | | faces adorn the four sides of the tower, and the |
| including harnesses, helmets, armours, rifles and | | | | interesting thing to note is that the hour hand is |
| pistols, as well as the Landhaus, seat of the | | | | smaller than the minute hand. |
| Styrian Provincial Government. One of Central | | | | Originally, the tower only featured a very large |
| Europe's most stunning Renaissance structures, | | | | hour hand, and the minute hands that were |
| this palace was built in the first half of the 16th | | | | installed later had to be designed smaller so people |
| century according to plans of the famous | | | | would be able to distinguish one from the other. |
| architect Domenico dell'Allio. The three level | | | | Fortunately, due to the ransom paid in 1809, the |
| arcaded courtyard is a true architectural gem, and | | | | tower has survived and we are still able to admire |
| on the southern end of the square visitors can | | | | it today while the remainder of the fortification |
| relax in the historic Landhauskeller restaurant | | | | was razed. The tower was also used as a fire |
| which features an attractive courtyard patio. | | | | alarm bell, as a the "Bell of Poor Sinners" that was |
| On the other side of the Herrengasse is the | | | | rung during executions, and as the bell that |
| "Gemaltes Haus" - also called the "Herzogshof" | | | | announced the closing hours for the local |
| (Painted House or Duke's Estate), a painted house | | | | hospitality establishments. |
| whose baroque frescoes were created in 1742 | | | | Just below the Uhrturm is a small garden |
| by Johann Mayer and illustrate the gods of | | | | surrounded by flowers which offers a gorgeous |
| Roman-Greek mythology. Just steps northwards | | | | view over the city and its Main Square. I started |
| from there I reached the "Grazer Hauptplatz", or | | | | to make my way down from the Schlossberg |
| Graz' main square. This extensive essentially | | | | along the serpentine-like paths in the park and |
| triangular square is framed on two sides by five | | | | stopped by the entrance to the Schlossbergstollen |
| and six story stately houses painted in a variety | | | | (Schlossberg Tunnel), part of the tunnel system |
| of intense baroque colours such as salmon, ochre, | | | | that is built into the mountain and was used as air |
| brick red, and many feature detailed façade | | | | raid shelters during the air attacks of World War |
| ornamentations. | | | | II. Today you can cross the base of the mountain |
| The south side of the square is taken up by the | | | | through this tunnel. At the base I reached the |
| "Rathaus" - the flamboyant historicist late 19th | | | | Karmeliterplatz Square. One of the buildings on the |
| century palace of the Graz' City Hall. Just in front | | | | north side of the adjacent Sporgasse also |
| of it is the Erzherzog-Johann-Brunnen (Archduke | | | | features a stunning inner courtyard and I wished I |
| Johann Fountain) which is surrounded by | | | | had had more time to explore the hidden |
| numerous adjacent fast food and retail stands | | | | treasures of Graz' secret courtyards. |
| that sell typical Austrian sausages, French fries, | | | | I turned left into a street called Hofgasse and |
| flowers and magazines as well as roasted | | | | stopped at a very unusual building: the |
| chestnuts in the fall. The northeast side of the | | | | Edegger-Tax Bakery, a so-called royal bakery, the |
| Hauptplatz features a view of Graz' most famous | | | | oldest such establishment in Graz that dates back |
| landmark: the "Uhrturm" (Clock Tower), located on | | | | to 1569. It stunning 1896 carved wooden portal |
| the Schlossberg hill that overlooks the city. | | | | sets it apart from the surrounding stuccoed |
| I continued my walk northwards through this | | | | houses and during the late 1800 this bakery |
| pedestrian zone along the historic Sackstrasse and | | | | became an official supplier of Austria's ruling royal |
| walked into a truly historic restaurant: the | | | | families. |
| "Krebsenkeller" (Crawfish Cellar) has been a | | | | My walk continued to the Freiheitsplatz ("Liberty |
| restaurant here since 1538 and its inner courtyard | | | | Square") which is the location of Graz' theatre. |
| was full of culinary fans. Across the street is the | | | | Across the street from the Schauspielhaus |
| famous Hotel Erzherzog Johann which is also a | | | | theatre is the Grazer Dom, a cathedral that dates |
| restaurant since 1852. Just steps further north I | | | | back to 1438. The south side of this late-Gothic |
| walked into another historic building whose | | | | church is adorned with a painting of the three |
| courtyard was adorned with a metal sculpture | | | | scourges: the Black Plage, war and locusts. |
| that surprisingly featured all sorts of American | | | | Austrian imperial coats of arms as well as those |
| footballs. | | | | of Styria and Portugal point to the historic |
| Metres away is the so-called Schlossbergplatz, a | | | | aristocratic connections. |
| square framed by various bourgeois houses and | | | | Right next to the Dom is the Mausoleum of |
| historic restaurants that features stairs up to the | | | | Austrian emperor Francis Ferdinand II, one of |
| Schlossberg. I then crossed the road and walked | | | | Austria's most important structures of Mannerism |
| southwards alongside the Mur River to one of the | | | | and Early Baroque. Designed in the late 1600 it is |
| newest landmarks of Graz: the "Murinsel" (Mur | | | | the last resting place of Francis Ferdinand as well |
| Island) was built in 2003 when Graz was the | | | | as a variety of other Habsburg rulers. |
| European Cultural Capital. The New York designer | | | | I continued my walk down the Bürgergasse |
| Vito Acconci created a design for an artificial island | | | | and turned into the small Abraham a Santa Clara |
| that connects the eastern and western banks of | | | | side street until I arrived at the Glockenspielplatz |
| the Mur and is supposed to resemble a sea-shell. | | | | ("Carillon Square"), aptly named for the carillon built |
| The interior of the island holds an amphitheatre, a | | | | in 1905 that enchants crowds of onlookers three |
| restaurant and a playground for children. | | | | times a day at 11 am, 3 and 6 pm. A wooden |
| Now I needed to explore the city's most | | | | couple dressed in traditional Styrian outfits, and |
| prominent elevation: the Schlossberg (literally | | | | the male with a raised wine glass, dance to the |
| "Castle Hill"). I did that by taking the | | | | old melodies of 24 bells. |
| Schlossbergbahn funicular which is part of the | | | | This entire area is part of the Bermuda-Dreieck |
| Graz public transport system. The original | | | | ("Bermuda Triangle"), Graz's most popular |
| steam-operated funicular was opened in | | | | entertainment area that is centred around the |
| November 1894 and was in operation until 1960. | | | | Mehlplatz, Prokopigasse and Färberplatz. |
| After an extensive renovation and rebuilding of | | | | Dozens of hospitality establishments, most with |
| the steep rails, the funicular started operating | | | | outdoor patios, entice locals and travelers alike to |
| again in 1961 until it closed its doors in February of | | | | explore the culinary and entertainment |
| 2004. | | | | opportunities that Graz has to offer. |
| The third generation of this funicular was initiated | | | | The Erzherzog-Johann Brunnen (fountain) on Graz' |
| in early 2004 and cost about 2.5 million Euros. The | | | | Main Square |
| new generation of vehicles is more spacious and | | | | Through one of the tiny passageways I ended up |
| features fully glass-enclosed roofs and windows | | | | back on the Main Square and took another tiny |
| which provide a great view of the city as you | | | | alleyway, full of bars, restaurants and small retail |
| ascend up the mountain. It takes just over two | | | | stores to the back of the Franziskanerkirche |
| minutes to go from the base station up 123 m in | | | | (Franciscan Church). From the front of the church |
| altitude to the upper station and at a cost of 1.70 | | | | there is a perfect view across the Mur River of |
| Euro it is an affordable and interesting way of | | | | the "Kunsthaus", Graz' Museum of Modern Art |
| getting up to Graz' famous hill. | | | | that was completed in 2003 and resembles a |
| At the top I stepped out onto the outdoor patio | | | | rounded spaceship. The entire downtown of Graz |
| of a restaurant that offers a phenomenal view | | | | is chock full of bars and restaurants and all the |
| over Graz and the surrounding mountains. Steps | | | | squares and side streets are full of |
| away I saw the Glockenturm ("Bell Tower"), a | | | | "Schanigärten" (outdoor patios) that entice |
| historic building from 1588 which still houses a bell | | | | you to sit down, rest and enjoy some hearty |
| that weighs 4200 kg and is referred to as Liesl. | | | | Austrian food and drink. |
| The Schlossberg used to feature a medieval | | | | I had thoroughly enjoyed my exploration of Graz, |
| castle from the 1500s (therefore the name | | | | and drove home to relax with my brother and |
| "Castle Hill") that was ordered to be destroyed by | | | | sister-in-law and to reflect on a day full of |
| Napoleon in 1809. Only the Bell Tower and Graz' | | | | discoveries. There would have been so much |
| famous landmark, the Uhrturm, were allowed to | | | | more to see in Graz, but I would have to leave |
| remain of the fortress. The local residents had | | | | some destinations for my next visit. After a nice |
| paid a considerable ransom to the French troops | | | | pizza dinner in a local restaurant in Weiz I headed |
| to hold on to their beloved landmarks. | | | | to bed early since tomorrow we are going to go |
| Walking southwards of the Glockenturm I arrived | | | | on a major excursion: a trip to the mountains of |
| at the Stallbastei ("Stable Bastion"), a fortification | | | | Slovenia and Italy! |